Bruce
3 posts
Joined: 26/08/2006 16:37:05
Location: Lymington United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
CORE PLUGS FITMENT/ LOCATION ON A+ ENGINE
Can anyone tell me where the core plugs on an A+ engine are located and how to fit them please?
Thanks,
Posted: Sep 16, 2008 12:48 PM
mark
397 posts
Joined: 18/08/2005 14:01:28
Location: Hitchin United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
A+ core plugs are a slighly different size to A series ones
usually you will find a couple at the front of the block, and some around by the top tie bar. to remove the old ones, just knock a screw driver through and prize out, and to refit the new ones, find a socket that fits inside the new core plug, and tap in carefully hitting the socket with a hammer.
Posted: Sep 19, 2008 09:48 AM
matthew glanville
7 posts
Joined: 06/08/2010 07:48:20
Location: gillingham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
core plugs help needed!
hi all,ive brought some new core plugs to fit into my 1962 mk1.after removing the old ones and cleaning everything up the new ones slip in easily...a bit to easily i think? is this correct,am i missing something? any help would be appreciated as its the first time ive done core plugs!
Posted: Sep 19, 2010 12:22 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
core plugs help needed
No, they should not slip in easily! They shoul dbe a tight fit and need to be hammered in using an appropriately-sized drift (e.g. a large socket)
According to Somerford's catalogue, the part number for core plugs for a standard 848cc engine is 2K8169. is that what you bought? Are you sure you have a standard engine?
Posted: Sep 19, 2010 12:29 PM
Slight clarification: the plugs are normally slightly dished, and after tapping them into location you are meant to tap the plug flat - it's this that makes them tight. You should use some sort of sealant as well.
Posted: Sep 19, 2010 04:08 PM
re core plugs help needed
thanks tim,i had an idea that would be the answer but seemed a little primitive!
Posted: Sep 19, 2010 04:51 PM
Core plug
Just chisel/lever out the old one, clean up the opening, apply some gasket, and push in the new one. You finish it off by carefully hammering the plug flat - this seals it in the hole.
Posted: Mar 21, 2011 04:10 PM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
spark plugs
BPR6ES is copper core suppressed plug
BPR6E is steel core suppressed plug
BP6ES is copper core non suppressed plug
suppressed plugs are genrally used with electronic ignition, ie in minis 90's 1275 or metros. it helps reduce radio noice. but i dont use suppresed plugs as you can get a bigger spark without them. from memory s standard for super and its copper core plugs. copper core plugs are best. R standands for resistor. there are all sorts of fancy plugs now platinum tipped ect but iv heard alot of people have troubles with them iv not used them personally, il stick to copper core single prong myself.
Posted: Nov 19, 2007 06:05 PM
martin
22 posts
Joined: 18/12/2005 17:16:07
Location: newcastle United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
is it a cooper?
my 1275 motor has 2 core plugs on the engine steady side,does this mean its a cooper motor?
Posted: Sep 30, 2006 08:05 PM
Electronic Ignition
u may already have it, it was standard 88 on i think. i think most use ballast coil but best refur to manufacturer to be sure. A coil change may not be nessary. i run my standard electric ignition, with copper core leads and reistor plug caps and non resistor plug (copper core ngk bp7es) i run the maxium adviable spark plug gape for spark ignition 50 thousands and it runs loverly. an uprated coil will not be of any use unless ur ignition system uses high resistance leads and u want to use a large plug gap (better to change leads) or on some race engines the compression may be very high and an uprated coil may help (more so with mecanical ignition). if u need a differnt type of coil thats fair enouth but otherwise an uprated coil will have no effect what so ever. will not improve spark or anything.
Posted: May 03, 2007 01:27 PM
please help 1275 engine rattle!!!
copper core leads will help spark prob went affect overun. new dystribitor cap, buy some copper core ignition wire, buy ngk spark plug caps as sold on here these have gold contacts so dont play up, use ends from old plugs to go into dystribitor and rubber caps around wires. set plug gap to around 50 thousands (less if it doesnt run well). then you should have good stroung sparks that will improve power and mpg marginally and should be more reliable provided you dont get it covered in water of course. as for rattle its really difficalt to know without hearing it even then its gess work unless you have very knowledgable and experienced mecanic. iv seen in submarine films they put a stephachope against engine to find problems but dont know how well that works and if it will send you deff or not. id keep driving it as to fix it if its transmission will be big job. if whole lot fails you can easy to get anouther box or diff to rebuild for £50 and then fix it then if you see my logic, when it breaks fix it then as parts are so easily avalible.
Posted: Nov 17, 2007 05:26 PM
multiprong plugs have been proven to reduce power output on dyno you still only get one spark at a time its just sheilded by the other prongs. only advantage they have is they last longer as when one prong errodes anouther starts to be used instead. as most engines dont eat spart plugs its best to use a single copper core plug as you are using leave the gimics to the boy racers. BP6ES is best on near standard 1275 or 998. BP7ES fine modifyied minis BP8ES fine for heavy tuned minis BP9ES good for heavyly tuned turbo mini's ect. all the plugs listed are copper core non supressed plugs. as suppressed plugs are just to improve radio reception but cause weaker spark i dont use them. the bigger the plug number the colder they run, if a plug runs too cold it will soot up with deposits if it runs too hot it can cause overun knocking plug damage ect, if its wroung either way power will suffer. but they arnt that fussey bp5es-bp7es will work fine in most standard minis. as taffy has said you may have a sports coil but if its not for electronic ignition it wont work well it may overheat and this may be causing bad running. the standard coil fitted to the 90's 1275 minis is quite adiquate just because doesnt have sports lable doesnt mean its no good. the poor running may just be weather you have to set to fast idle with ajuster screw when air temperature is cold or it will stall at idle. some people leave it fast idle all the time but i put it back to slow idle in summer to save fuel.
Posted: Nov 16, 2007 07:53 PM
kevin shaw
26 posts
Joined: 24/01/2005 13:37:30
Location: Boston United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
A+ OR NOT
Have just bought a 1981 pick up and was wondering if it an A or A+ engine. I dont really know how to tell the difference and as this engine needs a core plug I would like to get it right. I understand the engine is a 998 but again not sure. Plus are the settings different for both types or not. Advice greatly recd thank you.
Posted: Nov 26, 2005 08:35 PM
What Spark Plugs Do I Use for SPI
taffy do u know what happens if u dont use the resistor plugs with electronic ignition. does it just advance the timming slightly or does it cause a problem with a good spark or burning plugs out. just curious as iv replaced my ignition leads with home made non supressed copper core ones with nkg resistor caps. but i didnt think about the plugs having resistors in do u have any idea what resistor they have in.
Posted: Apr 17, 2007 07:55 AM
Michael
4 posts
Joined: 13/02/2007 16:04:30
Location: Phoenix United States
sound system... help?
Try grounding your head unit to the steering column support bracket, just remember to clean off any paint and primer at the attachment point. The ticking noise that you mention in your first post is most likely associated with the ignition system, points, plug wires or coil. make sure that your condensor, if so equipped, is functioning properly. Also remember that high performance, or solid copper core spark plug wiring can cause this typr of radiated interference.
Posted: Apr 27, 2007 04:36 PM
Jake Holmes
172 posts
Joined: 14/02/2009 21:39:11
Location: Walton on Thames United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
re
Well its bad news if it's a cracked block or cylinder head but if its just a core plug then they aren't that hard to replace, assuming one can get to them! They are supposed to protect the engine from cracking due to freezing but they can simply corrode away, having the correct proportion of antifreeze can prevent this.
Posted: Apr 29, 2011 07:55 PM
matt barker
1 posts
Joined: 06/10/2011 22:16:14
Location: Reading United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Smiths water temp gauge in 2 core rad
Hi I have a mini spares 2 core rad I my car which has a drain plug at bottom which doubles as a place for fittment of a new temp sensor, I am trying to fit a smiths sensor in t it and have the adaptor but need to know the tread of the female hole in rad and male on he smiths adaptor for, I believed it to be 3/8 to 1/2 but to small and tread to course
Posted: Jul 23, 2014 10:21 PM
Metro Engine into Mini, help/advice please - clutch starters dizzy etc
ur 998 dizzy wont fit on a A+ block, and electrnic metro dystribitor and coil are good, get its advance modifyied by http://www.mlmotorsport.com/ as they are cheap and iv heard good reports. this setup will of ignition will be hard to beat, u just tell them the spec of ur engine and they give u a close match on what they predict the advance u reqire. a series and A+ dystribitors are not exchangeable they dont fit. ps aldon also will do same as mlmotorsport but cost more up to u, i think from memory cost £30 from ml and £50 from aldon so not alot reall. with new plugs something like nkg bp7es and copper core leads with supressed caps of 5kohm and 40-50 thousands plug gap = big strong spark = good comustion=good power + economy
Posted: Oct 29, 2007 10:27 PM
engine problems can any one help please
to be onest mini engines when they are cold when first starting usually cant stand heavy acceration. even in the summer my mini has to run for about a min before its non hesitant with the accerator. if ur alloy intake manifold insnt connected to a water supply with will show its warming up(alot of people just plug it in the heater circit can turn it on when u first start till its warmed up or in winter have it on all the time). twin su's if setup right can be very good twin 1.1/2" hs4 or hif4 work best for tuned mini engines. but they arnt a cheap setup also they are harder to setup. u need a manifolw steel intake to do any good with them really not cheap (around 110), then u have to by two K&N airfilters (around 80) then u have to by two of each needle u try, then u have to balence them. they are good if u want a powerful road engine but u can get good results with a single hif44 so these days people dont bother with twins as much as they did in the 60's and 70's. look at the mg metro for example leyand reliased they could get the same power as cooper s with a single carb.
you distributor wont have the right advance curve and total advance for ur engine (very unlikly to) this will mean the spark timming out so will be worse for power and in a worse cause could cause pinking/knocking.
fit the original electronic one they are such a blessing, they are pritty much maintence free and completly reliable. the spark created by electronic ignition is far strounger. iv fitted copper core leads with ngk spark plug caps (5k ohm resistance) and copper core bp7es plugs that iv set at 50 thousands gap (optium for best spark). it runs far better than standard and is more resonsive and wont need new leads every 2 years. standard carbon thread type suppressed ones need replacing every 2 years or so as they break down. with the better ignition it will fire the mixture better, so even if the mixture is a lil lean or rich it wont affect its running as much as the strounger spark will help the fuel light sooner and so burn more completly.
il have to have a look in the haines manual i cant rember off hand for mixture screw
Posted: Apr 28, 2007 10:08 AM
Gavin
20 posts
Joined: 16/09/2004 08:47:07
Location: Ashford United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Sick 1293
The plugs were recommended by Bill Richards at a tuning session recently, but I will check those first. The current ones are the race type plug which has the core nose recessed into the body of the plug more than a regular one and is definately NOT the V type plug. I agree that they are pants. The miss fire is through the entire rev band, and makes it difficult to get a steady idle speed. I am thinking that a piston ring may have gone as she chuffs like a trooper from the breathers. The only thing that isnt right is the compression. Is this possible?
Posted: Dec 08, 2004 12:23 PM